local dining

Friday, August 11, 2000

Catfish Corner’s house specialties are simple and delicious

By Brian Bethel
Reporter-News Staff Writer

With a name like Catfish Corner, you instantly know the nature of the house specialty. But this is one place where the house specialty is genuinely special.

Actually, the house special is listed on the menu as a peanut butter sandwich for $14.95 — and if you buy into that, then you’ll get exactly what you deserve.

For those who can see a bit more clearly, prepare to go to someplace just south of catfish nirvana.

Catfish is a sometimes-dangerous proposition in a restaurant environment, especially if it’s not the establishment’s primary dish. Sometimes too salty, sometimes too fishy, sometimes too dry, sometimes bone-laden — the list of potential sins against the palate is long.

In all of my trips to Catfish Corner, located at 780 Treadaway in Abilene, I can honestly say that all you get with each bite of flavorful fried fish some of the best catfish you’ll probably ever taste — and believe me, I’ve eaten a lot.

Served with your choice of baked potato, french fries, cole slaw or salad, the catfish plate ($6.50, $5.50 during lunch) is the base unit of measure for the eatery’s standard of goodness.

You get five big pieces of catfish, enough for some. But if you can really stop after just five pieces you’re either trying to control yourself or not a big catfish fan.

My dining companions and myself did not fit into the above category. We like catfish, and we like lots of it.

More the speed of the average customer is the all-you-can-eat catfish special, served daily for $7.95. You get the same catfish and trimmings mentioned above, but this time you can get all you want to eat. Keep asking and the courteous waitstaff will keep bringing.

A special side note must be mentioned here: If given a choice, try the fries. Sure, it’s just one more fried thing on your plate, which may make your cardiologist balk. But Catfish Corner has some of the best fries you’ve ever tried. Never overly soggy, these skins-on creations please with every bite.

You may find yourself eating a little less fish to grab some more fries. They’re that good.

Hushpuppies are on the spicy side, made with jalapenos. Those who aren’t into spicy foods may not find them to their liking. Everyone else will devour them whole.

Patrons willing to pay a bit more ($11.95) can enjoy a feast of all-you-can-eat shrimp and fish on Wednesday nights only. And speaking of shrimp, fans of the dish can select deep fried shrimp in a wide variety of sizes (ranging from four pieces to eight) from $7.95-$10.95.

The seafood platter ($11.95) serves up a stuffed crab, four fried shrimp and three fish fillets for a mere $8.95, a great value. If you prefer your catfish blackened, then a Cajun-style incarnation is available to sizzle your tastebuds.

Add a few dabs of the in-house cayenne pepper or habanero pepper sauce to your dish to make any favorite hot and spicy.

For those who like to mix the land and the sea, plates such as the Captain’s Catch, consisting of three chicken breast fillets and three fish fillets, will give you the best of both worlds for just $7.95.

And if you just can’t stand the water, hamburgers (from $3.25), steak sandwiches ($4.50), chicken fried steak ($6.95), hamburger steak ($6.25) and chicken breast fillets are among your more landlubbing options.

Most dinners come with options for fries, potatoes, salad and cole slaw, etc.

If you don’t have time to sit down and eat it at the restaurant, take-out orders are available for an additional 25-cent charge. In all cases, the advice given above — especially concerning the French fries — applies.

A staple in Abilene for going on 10 years (the official anniversary date is in November), owners Dan Jacoby, Marvin Morris and manager Sharon Morris have made certain that Catfish Corner serves up consistently great fare at a decent price.

You can’t ask for more than that when eating out, and as long as the Corner keeps serving up catfish that’s better than just about any other, it’s well worth your while to include it on your favorite places to dine.

Contact Brian Bethel at 676-6739 or bethelb@ abinews.com. Check out our Web site at www.reporternews.com. For previous restaurant reviews and a complete directory of Abilene restaurants, visit www.bigcountrydining.com.

IF YOU GO ...

Catfish Corner

780 Treadaway

Catfish Corner is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. weekdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. On Sundays, the restaurant is open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

A child’s catfish plate is available $4.95. Takeout is available on menu items (but obviously, not all you can eat specials) for an additional 25-cent charge. A 15 percent gratuity is added for all parties of 8 or more.

Lunch specials are served Monday through Friday, beginning at 11 a.m. and ending at 3 p.m.

Most credit cards accepted.