Friday, July 21, 2000

Stirring it up at the Whistle Stop

By Cheryl Holmes
Special to the Reporter-News

If it’s fried pork chops, salad, hand-cut French fries, gravy and Texas toast saturated with butter, then it must be Monday (or Saturday) at the Whistle Stop Café in Baird.

I happened onto the Whistle Stop Café by pure good luck. I was out “junking” with two friends who aren’t the least bit shy about licking a little gravy off their fingers. Searching for treasures works up a hearty appetite and I had heard about the fried pies at the Whistle Stop. They were happy to do some culinary sleuthing with me.

Of course, just being on Market Street in downtown Baird is nostalgic of life before McDonald’s, but walking into the Whistle Stop and being greeted by, “Y’all come on in. Have a seat anywhere.” sealed the Andy Hardy moment.

Our waitress, Lisa, brought us all large glasses of fresh brewed tea. We were there on a Thursday and the special was a Mexican food plate, which consisted of beef enchiladas, rice, pinto beans, salad and a small dessert. The price for the plate with one enchilada was $4.99 and for two $5.95. My friend ordered two and could not eat it all. However, she did manage the dessert, which was a butter pecan cake that was out of this world.

I chose the chicken strips served with French fries, salad, Texas toast and gravy and cost $5.25. My other lucky friend ordered the Patty Melt sandwich that is a generous all beef patty served on marbled rye toast with Swiss cheese and grilled onions. She chose to have potato salad rather than fries. Her meal cost $3.95 and was delicious.

Stuffed and unable to eat another bite, we ordered a cherry fried pie and an apricot fried pie. Lisa asked us if we wanted our sugar-glazed pies topped with ice cream. “Well, sure,” we said.

Not since Mack Eplen’s went out of the restaurant business had any of us experienced such divine pastry perfection. We wanted to lick our plates but held ourselves back.

We rolled out to our car and headed back west to Abilene, hoping that gluttony really isn’t a sin.

Pork chop specials are $5.95 and do not include desserts.

All other entrée specials are $5.25 and come with French fries, salad, Texas toast, gravy and a small dessert. Prices go down in the winter to $4.95 and plates are served with mashed potatoes and gravy.

Carol Baird and Bill Hargrove own the Whistle Stop Café at 228 Market Street in Baird.

Hours are 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday. A different special is offered each day, and on Friday mornings, giant homemade iced cinnamon rolls are on the menu for breakfast for just a buck.

They’ll even top it with chopped pecans if you request it.

Doing things the old-fashioned way is something that Carol is proud of.

“All of our burgers have 7 ounces of pure beef. We don’t use pre-breaded, frozen meat for our chicken fried steaks or steak fingers,” she said.

“We boil and bone our chickens for the chicken salad and we make our own hash browns. If what you want is not on the menu, then we’ll fix it for you.”

Carol serves up large helpings of food but even larger helpings of small town Texas hospitality. “We want our customers to feel like family,” Carol explains.

Cheryl Holmes is an Abilene shopkeeper and writer. For previous restaurant reviews and a complete directory of Abilene restaurants, visit www.EATabilene.com.

IF YOU GO …

Monday and Saturday: Two fried pork chops. Dessert is not included.

Tuesday: Chicken strips.

Wednesday: Hamburger steak with grilled onions and mushrooms topped with brown gravy fries.

Thursday: Mexican food plate. Selections vary.

Friday: Chicken fried steak.

Phone: 854-1325.

Reservations not needed. They’ll just pull up an extra chair.

No credit cards, but checks are accepted.